Ok so i know that people have talked about this from now and then but me and my friend are actually going to attempt to try this. A lot of ppl have talked about using a vtec block and a non vtec head for a motor setup (not a good one but i know ppl have just been interested). Using a bunch of spare/unwanted parts my friend has acquired over the years, we are going to be putting a b16 block/b20 non vtec head together and i figured i would document our progress...

This is going to be going into my old CRX Si (if anyone remembers it) my friend bought it from my friend that originally bought it but no motor for $550. If anyone wants to see it just click on my signature.

B16a block, b20 non vtec head
using golden eagle ls/vtec dowels (but flipped upside down) b/c of the size of the holes.
ARP ls head studs
b16 timing belt/water pump and a b16 headgasket
hydro LS transmission
obdo ls intake manifold
Here are some pics so far...








comment if you like...i know our first hang up was that we needed a hydro passenger side mount and we had a cable one so we have to get that from hasport (previous tranny was a b16 cable)

So what are your plans for this? Are you gona dyno it to see power or just see if it will even run without blowin up?

Courious to see end result. Keep us updated

yea we just wanna see if it works and if so, just see the power output

haha nice dude! always wanted to see some1 do this! keep us updated!

It Started!!!

so we got the injector clips switched and we were able to start it...just fyi this car has a lot of things missing...we did this mainly to just see if it starts

it has NO...

drivetrain
axles
shift linkage
hasport hydro conversion
radiator (motor is dry)
intake
exhaust
t-mount etc...

anywase it did start......followed by about 3 quarts of oil shooting out from somewhere behind the block lol

we turned it off and looked and we think it is possibly from the headgasket but we have to get the intake manifold off to see..

on a positive note...we started it on a LS ecu and it ran really strong...started up first try and idled perfectly.

here are some pics of what it looked like when we started it...

I hope you did this godawful swap JUST to see how much power you can make with this setup....

^ yes as stated above

Your oil leak is coming from between the head and block. You need to plug the vtec oil passage in the block just like you do the head on a LS Vtec swap. You have around 50-60 psi of oil pressure trying to go to the head but it has no place to go. So it finds the easiest way out, that is through the head gasket and out. I think it is cool that you are doing this, heck I would if I have all the parts laying around. The set up should be like a better ZC motor with higher compression, better head, cams and a bottom end that will rev to 10k. Put some stage 2 cams and springs in the head and you will be able to rev the crap out of it! Should make some good power also but will be low on torque. You picked the right ecu to run the motor, the p75 obd1 is the best stock ecu. Chipping and tuning will get the most power and reliability. I would also check cam and crank timing after turning the motor over. Untested swaps you never know if the timing belt will keep things aligned. Cant wait to see the numbers on this setup and read what you have to say about driving it.

what part do you need to plug? is the plug in the middle on the back side of the block

You need to take the head off, sorry to say. The oil hole is on the block deck. Tap the hole to take a LS vtec head plug. Just like you used the LS vtec dowels in reverse you need to plug the block in reverse, instead of the head. Its on the intake side of the block/rear on the trans end. You should find it easily once the head is off, there will be oil leading to it.

^ ok thanks guess we will try again