after reading the all motor ls thread over on h-t, ive decided to do a nice streetable B18B build. here's what i have. since i doing a swap, & while i have the motor out of the car, i may aswell pay some attention to the bottom end. here's what i have planned.

Stock crank/rods (w/ARP rod bolts)
RaceAxis PR3 pistons
ACL race bearings

So nothing really over the top. Dont wanna go crazy on raising the compression, around the 10.*:1 range will be perfect for me. If i feel im not happy with that compression, i can always use an OEM 2-layer or even 1-layer HG.

Now on with the head. I recently seen some posts on using a P8R head. Ive heard some users say to mill/shave the head to the point where the quench pads are flush/flat, doing this eliminates the 84mm combustion area (someone please correct me if wrong). I could get the P75 head pnp'd, but the price id pay for a P8R head & getting it shaved would far outweigh a pnp. Im sure there's some floating around. alot of guys over here do CRVtecs

So the head list

P8R head milled/shaved or P75 head port n polished
Crower stage 2 cams
Crower dual valve springs & Ti retainer set/kit
Maxbore bored throttle body
Skunk2 intake manifold
typical I/H/E (SRI, hytech replica header, 2.25" catback)

Ive also seen some of the all motor b18b setups using OBD1 prelude injectors, which i dont know what size they are. I dont think ill need them though, this setup should run fine with stock size injectors do you think?

All this with a chipped P06 ECU. i dont know yet if i will be running crome or hondata, havent found anyone in australia that can tune with crome. If you feel somethings not right or i may be missing something, please, i would like to here peoples input on this setup.

setup looks legit... if you want a good ecu to start out with, phearable.net has some really good basemaps that come with crome. If you get hondata, you can still get a basemap from the phearable for hondata at a fraction of the cost

That does look pretty good. I have never had a build with a p8r head so I don't know what exactly you would need to do. Tuning is always a tough decision but if you can find someone to tune with crome that would be great. I don't know if there any hondata tuners in Australia.

yeah, thanks guys. between the time of posting this thread, until now, ive also been looking at boosting. when it comes down to it, its only a daily driver. now tracks up here, there's a 1/4mile 3 hrs drive from where i live, but is rarely used.

A nice NA would be quick off the throttle. this would be best suited for a dd, my wife also drives the car. but boost for me is to hard to pass by. What do you guys think?

Now with the head, if i stay with a P75, crower stg2 blah blah blah, if i left the head without a pnp, would i still notice some type of increase?

imma let you know on a little secret..

my ls on spray

scat rods, je 9.5:1 pistons, crower stage 1 cams and all the bolts w/ 75 shot tuned on hondata...ran a best of a 14.2 in the quarter...

my all motor b20/vtec stock b20b block and stock gsr head w/bolt ons...ran a 14.1 recent and the track hadnt been repaved since last year.

all motor is the way to go...its a lot more reliable if done right, and gets great mpg

Id rather build something i can use its full potential on the street, because of the situation im in, no track or dragstrip. Rather than building something i will never get to use full potential.

Im planning on using phearables chipped nonvtec ecu. 2-step launch control sounds mad, plenty of traffic lights around for me to test it out!

I originally wanted to use crower stage 1 cams, but since im raising the compression, i thought the stage 2 would have been better suited. I pondered on the stage 1 cams for the fact i can get away with using stock valvetrain. remember guys, im in aus, & most of the parts im buying from overseas, so id like to keep things to a minimum if possible.

I may not even consider a skunk2 IM. rather just get the IM match ported for the throttle body. but, the cost of a ported stock IM may justify the need for a skunk2 IM.

As for headers guys, just looked at the price for hytech replicas, holy, are there any other good power producing headers out there?

well i mean what is your price budget? like you can get a RMF replica for like 475ish...if that is too expensive, a genuine 2000-2001 ITR header is a good one to get used

a blox intake manifold with a bored out throttle body would work great, especially with the cams. If you leave the head without a p&p you will still notice a difference. Stay with all motor if you want reliability.

yes, reliability is really what i want, the whole real reason why im swapping out the d16 for a b18. reliability would fly out the door if i whacked a turbo on it!

With that setup, if i can get 150+whp/110+kw out of that, ill be more than happy.

an ITR header sounds like it'd be a better choice for me.

ok guys, so i found some nice ITR headers, now onto the exhaust.

Ive fitted a 2 1/4" catback mild steel exhaust, press bent (crush bent you guys call it). Now, out of the 2 options, which would be better suited. #1 - 2 1/4" mandrel bent catback or #2 - 2.5" press bent catback, both in mild steel. Im also considering a test pipe, which i believe replaces the cat? or something along those lines.

ATM, the exchange rate is looking rather glim, crower 403s will cost me around $500aud, thats without shipping! So i may be putting the cams off for a while. now, because im fitting the PR3's & new bearings before the engine gets installed, will the stock cams be alright with em? Or should i just wait until ive got the cam/vs kit before i install the pistons. i can always fit the pistons at a later date, its just that itll be easier to fit them while the engine is out. I can always go with an OEM 1-layer HG to bump stock compression up a little while i wait for the PR3s.

Better just to wait because you will have to retune after you put the cams in. I found a set of brand new 403's with springs for 575 on honda-tech. See if anyone is selling over there.

about the cams too. 404s & 403s are the same price. i know i said i wouldnt go overboard with this build, but ive always loved that lumpy idle. i know 404s will be a little harder to tune, so i might stay with the 403s...

sup fam. 2 choices bosch 4 or e3 spark plugs?

Reliablity with a turbo comes with a good tune. If you don't have a good tune on either build you will cut the life of your engine short. You could use a GT2871r turbo that will spool up fast and 6psi would feel really good. You just don't have to push your engine to the limits as far as boost pressure and you can tune it properly and last a long time. Im using the turbo listed above and my engine is in the tuning process with an s300.

To the poster about the nitrous. I ran a 14.3 with a 75 dry shot on a stock LS engine on a stock map. I think that comes down to the driver. What was your 60' and reaction time on that pass? If you drove the car well then what type of power did you get after tuning the car?