Well I’m set on going nonvtec in the summer. My goal with this motor is to go all motor and put down around 170 hp. I want to hear kids whine when I walk on their b16, and then they’ll say what’s under the hood yo? Simply say just an ls. And then they say no vtec bro?! No wai!! I figure when the builds done I should be able to take b16s and pull on stock gsr’s. So I’m starting my list of things I plan on doing to the motor and what I need for the swap. So here’s the deal.

Looking at buying the motor in April, have emissions in Feb. and I’ll see if I ever have to come back. Going to buy my Skunk2 shocks March and put them on, no more snow worries so I can sit low J.

I am going to buy an obd2 b18b1. I am looking into either buying a manual or automatic. I’d rather go the automatic route, and convert it, save some money and get a better tranny. I will rebuild the engines, gaskets, and seals and stuffs.

So if I get an automatic one here’s what I figure I’d need:
-Automatic long block: $300ish on craigs
-Sell the auto tranny: $50?
-Exedy stage 1 clutch kit: $269
-Should I get an Exedy flywheel (9.5 lbs) or Act flywheel (12 lbs): $200
-B16 or GSR tranny: $300ish
-Starter: $50-$100 used
-Shift linkage: $50
- Ecu

What else will I need?

Total: Around $1.2-$1.3k


If I get a manual motor:
-Manual long block: Seen them from $600-$1k on craigs
-I don’t think I’d upgrade clutch/flywheel right away, be a lot of quick spending


What are the exact mounts I need for it to fit my EK?
- I need the cam side mount from 99-00 si right?
- I know I need one more, I can’t remember which though.

The build:
-Right away I’d want to put some P30 pistons in, figure while I have the motor out I will do the pistons since it’ll be tough to do pistons with the motor in. Raise my compression to high 10’s, and a nice power boost: Like $200 new, some on craigs on ls rods for $150
- I will eventually build the head (just pricey). I will build the head once I get it ported (ported ls head on craigs for $100). I plan on doing Crower SS valves, valve springs, retainers, and stage 2 cams: $800 ish
- I will get my car chipped, probably go through phearable. I will have to get the jumper to obd1, and put the obd2 ecu back in if I have emissions again.
- ARP head studs and rod bolts: $150
- I’ll replace all gasket seals: $idk
- Skunk2 intake manifold (towards the bottom of the list of importance): $275
- Blackworks throttle body: $150
- Cam gears (maybe OBX, good brand not too expensive): $169
- Fuel pressure regulator/gauge: $50
- Megan Racing header
- No ac

My other questions about swap:
Do I have to get Integra fuel line?
Will my d16 throttle cable fit?
Do I need to upgrade my rad?
I think I have most covered, but I want to get this down and a set plan before I begin.
Thanks



It wouldn't let me post this all at once, sorry about the multiple posts over the one thing.

sounds good just take care of the block first then move up.

if your looking at the high 10 cr look into the p72 pistons p30's will get you higher then that.

Im building the same set up but looking to get around 200whp if i dont i'll just leave it at that

I paid 280 for my rebuild KIT 82mm YCP P30 pistons and gaskets I will also be using a kiddracing header and custom head gasket.

and for the head i dont know yet I do know i will be using exospeed stage 3 cams

An all motor non vtec hitting 200 hp probably won't happen without boring out to bigger pistons. 170 hp is probably where I'll be at by the end, hit 180 with a good tune. I'm going to put the pistons in right away, but all the head work will be slowly done as I get the money.

there are a few around hitting the 200 mark one with ITBS and one without its all in the CR and your cam choice