I would like to know if any of you knows witch parts to take to build some kind of good n/a setup with a 97 b20b p8r-7 head and I do have the block too.

ex.: witch compagny do cams for it
witch valve kits to take since according to your website the valve's are 33mm compared to 31mm for p75... etc.

thank you in advance

i would go with crower or brian crower for the valvetrain and cams. as far as the valves i would just keep the OEM valves. the stock honda valves will be fine for an all motor setup

I went with a B20Z block and P8R head with 62401 Crower cams. The mild street cams allowed me to keep the stock valvetrain and also didn't make me sacrifice any low-end torque. Your setup will have lower compression due to the B20B's dish pistons, though; In fact, I think it's going to be in the 8.4:1 range due to the larger combustion chamber in the P8R head. Why not throw a turbo and 650cc injectors on there and use Hondata? You could boost like mad with that CR...

i know of no company that make aftermarket p8r cyl head valves as i had the same issue when building my 2.1 ltr no vtec. i kept factory valves and had them cleaned up and polished only head work i opted for was a full multi angle valve job and radioused the seats and a bit of pocket blending. i ran the head with crower valve springs and oem new retainers with crower 402 cams and currently upgraded to 403 cams. head flows great id say the p8r factory flows as well as the vtec gsr head or better.

My post was wrong; I actually have the 402s with stock valvetrain. And yes, the p8r head flows almost identically as well as the pr3 (Civic Si) head. Throwing in some 403 or 404 cams would be just like running an Si head with VTEC killers.

jst put a new cambelt in 96 orthia, B20B eng. cant get it timed right. idles rough and pinks under load, yet turning distributer doesnt change anything just makes it worse. any ideas???