I just put a ECU chip, in my 1993 integra with a b18a1. the chip is good for 8300 RPM'S. It also has a stage 3 cluch and 8 LB flywheel, the head is new used, the valves are adjusted, good spark plug wire, NO CHECH ENGINE LIGHT ON, What is the problem is it will not go past 7300 or so. it has stock cams and no cam gears. Or any after market fuel rail or injectors. it has a new fuel filter and good pump. I have not checked the spark plugs or the air filter( it dose not have a air box just Big filter on the air intake tub.) The timing is close, Any info would help. thanks.

first of all. please don't rev it more than 6.5k rpms if you didn't upgraded the rod bolts with arp's.

you have a engine break to happen. a very bad one.

second, where did you got that chip? do you have an access to its info on ignition/fuel tables?

do you know if you're running way rich or lean?

my best advise is: get rid of that chip. and start your build the right way. get a 4-2-1 header, upgrade the exhaust no more than 2 1/4 inches, and start familiarizing yourself with reading spark plugs, etc.

go slow in your build. don't buy the first thing you see. do a extensive research.

wow, did you really though that ls was going to go to 8.3k rpms without breaking?? lol.

btw, your oem cams stop making power at 6k rpms....

what were they going to do after 6k? just spin?

Will thanks for the info. you mean the chip will not take it up to 8300 RPM"S?? what ebay said so. LOL
ok let me tell you first. It is a race car, not a DD. here is what has been done. It is a new rebuilt. B18a1 block bord 30 over, all new pistons, rist pins, rings, all new bearings and gaskets. Timingbelt, water pump, moroso oil pan, ARP head bolts, stage 3 clutch, 8LB flywheel, New remaned head (pr4), welded difference NO LSD, 4-2-1 headers nothing after that no cat, O2 sensor is in, New CV shaft. NGK Wires, just got a cold air intake, a monotech ECU.
If i race it i will put the stock ECU back in. With the info you gave me i think the next step is Cams?? or injectors?? Thanks for the help. People told me this was a good site

indeed this is a good site. lol.

first step, get arp rod bolts. i won't recommend taking a ls engine to stratospheric revs without that insurance. you see, oem rod bolts don't like to be abused at all. they'll break and ruin your build.

before spending your money like crazy (money nowadays is not to be wasted), sit down and do a research.

for example, it isn't worthy spending money on cams and injectors if you don't have a bump in compression. what pistons do you have? oem? aftermarket cams with oem pistons = waste of money.

(well, yours are .30 over, right?)

same with the injectors.

so, do a research. research, research, research. peep another builds, there are lots of builds across the internet.

but for now, yeah take that chip off, and get arp rod bolts.

you'll thank me for that.

question: did you did the rebuild by yourself or a shop did that for you?

The sad fact with the rod bolts is you'll have to tear down the whole engine to replace them. Even if you just pull the oil pan and try to replace them, you still need to take them to a machine shop and have the big end trued with the ARP bolts. This will most likely change your bearing clearance so you'll need to get a different size (unless you went with the one size fits all bearings). After that, your bottom end can more safely turn high RPM's, but with stock cams and factory 9.2:1 CR, you won't make much power up high anyway

yep, sadly true.

that's why i asked the op if he or a shop did the engine job.

Ok the rebuild was done at a shop. The cams, It is .30 over with stock pistons and rods. and ever thing internal is all stock.

Ok the Chiped ECU is coming out, the timing is going to 16 Deg. (stock)

but the problem now is I am burning oil. I got a remaned head that has sat for a long time. I thing the problem is there. Iwas like 3/4 of a quart in like a ten mile drive. the oil was light was blinking, not on all the time. The oil censor is new whatit is i do not know. thanks for the help this far.

i don't think the problem lies on the head, bud. even bad valve seals don't neccessarily eat that much oil.

unless the head is cracked or it wasn't properly torqued. and in that case probably you have a toasted headgasket. no chocolate milky liquid at the radiator or oil dipstick?

pray hard for that chip probably busted your pistons oil rings.

lots of blue smoke at exhaust?

The coolent is nice and green. 3 of 4 spark plugs look good and the one sucks. I think the rings are fryed. It puts out a lot of white/blue smoke under a load and high RPM'S.

I have to take off the head and i was thinking for geting work done on it. i want to get more RPM'S. if i take the head off what cams, springs and other things do i have to get for More RPM'S. I have the ECU. " where the problem MAY have came from"

I have been told i can use b16 vtec valve spring, stage one cams, cam gears, ARP head bolts (can i reuse them??) a new head gasket, ARP rod bolts and rod bearings. What eals??? Thanks for the info man!