bought a ED hatch on february, after crashing my red DA.

goodbye...




hello!



price? $600 90k on the ticker.


decided to swap everything i could from the DA over to the ED. first swap was to ditch the rear drums by swapping the DA rears and ss brake lines all around (sorry forgot to take pics!)

then dropped in eibach springs:



and my miata wheels:



pinstriped it:



and dropped a ford ranger front lip! now that's a first, ain't it? :



a stance pic (kinda sucky, the pic i mean!)



rta bushings:



fast forward to today:

DA engine is out, and on a stand waiting to be droppped into the ED bay confines. engine has already been cleaned and also a set of stage 1 web cams are in:



the d engine of the hatch is out and the bay has been cleaned:

forgot to add that this hatch will be undergoing a auto to manual conversion as well. a b17 tranny is waiting to get in its new home, lol.

more updates soon.

Ford ranger front lip huh. Sure beats what I have used.. a garage door weather seal from home depot.

pretty good so far. minus the front lip

today's update.

wait for it... wait for it...

muthafuckin BAM!!!!!



clutch cable is in. long story short, woke up at 5AM, took a 4 hr. trip to my apartment and back with the wifey, picked up the DA integra pedal assembly. got back, and with the help of my father in law, well you just saw the pic.

remember last month when i told you that it isn't possible to swap the DA pedal assembly into the ED confines? well, yes and no. the pedal assembly certainly doesn't fit, but you can make it fit. you just have to notch it so it clears the stud located right under the accelerator pedal.

don't worry about flexing and stuff, you still have at least six bolts that will still properly hold down the pedal assembly. i don't have pics on the exact part you have to notch, but if you intend to do this it is pretty simple to do. the adventage to this is that the DA pedal assmbly is WAY sturdier than the ED pedal, and also it is convenient to use if you're going to swap a B in a ED.

you may ask yourself how we did the hole for the clutch line, right? pretty simple, and ghetto. i punched the exact location from inside the hatch, then took a small drill and made a first set of holes. then took a bigger bit and drilled until i got it. then i smoothed it out and took a pic of it when finished.

tomorrow a big update. wait.

here's today's update:




yep, it is finally in. lol on two mounts ftm, that's why it's still chained. i have to wait for the tob spring to arrive so i can hook up the tob and then finally mate the tranny to the engine and to the other mounts.



all lines are hooked though.



and the harness properly pinned in their respective ecu plug slots according to the instructions i received from this new harness... makes it a REAL plug and play affair.



i tried to hook back the power steering pump to the hatch, but hey the ED confines are small... so i'm going to loop the ps lines. on that purpose, i'm thinking on two places: 1. loop the lines tothe nipples on the speedometer at the tranny; 2. loop the lines using the ps reservoir... i'm tempted to do this since it seems a more appropiate and cleaner approach.



so, hopefully tomorrow tranny will be in and with that the rest of the stuff. fire up should be tomorrow or friday.

today's update:

finally, the spring for the throwout bearing has arrived!




and now it's in the tranny:




yes! engine and tranny are in!!





header is in:




also in are the traction bar and the front mount as well:








axles are also in. these two had me scratching my head for a bit until i figured out that they were the infamous dust shields. so i took them out.




and after a hard day's work, dinner. viandas con bacalao!

today's update.


spent the day tidying things up.

after i finished, just one crank and it fired right up!

kept it for just a bit, since the engine didn't had any water in it, and didn't wanted it to overheat, lol.

nevertheless, so far so good!

so tomorrow i'll be swapping the front springs, dialing in the relay for the clutch sensor, hook up the rear lights, fill it with colant, check the brakes, start it up take a vid and then for a spin! wOot!

now a pic of today's dinner:



yes it's kinda blurry, but i was mad tyte hungry, lol. white rice, red beans, fish and avocado. and yeah, i ate the whole plate, a 155-165lbs guy like me!

lol.

a pic i just took with my cell phone. enjoy:

looks good

thanks man!

gotta replace the o2 sensor, it got bonkers last week and guess it has died completely, since now i have code 43 besides code 1

gave it a well deserved wash/wax. looks tits

i also replaced the o2 sensor. 15 mins later, codes 1 and 43 are no'mo'!

broke and bored out of my skull, i decided to polish the fuck out of the rad cap. one thing led to another, and i ended up cleaning the engine, once again. lol i need to get money for the new dizzy.

couple of pics for your enjoyment.


about to finish polishing the rad cap:




rad cap is in and the engine is clean. btw, next in polishing will be the hood's lower lock.

pc ur valve cover

pc your valve cover? sorry, i don't get it...

PC = powder coat

Nice work by the way

oh i see. i was like pc... wtf? political correctness? lol!

i may go pc later down the road. right now i just wanna spray it and make it look decent.

i may respray it purple or go olive green.

opinions are welcome.

wtf. yesterday i bought a new battery because i though mine was gone.



let me explain.



tried to start the hatch yesterday, didn't turned over. just made a click. so jumped it and started. said to myself, hm it gotta be the battery.



so i bought a new one. went back to the parking lot, installed the new battery... turned the key and nothing. same click, doesn't turn/start. went back to work.



after work i tried to start the hatch. one turn and vroom, it started. so i said to myself, hey somehow it got solved.



until today morning. same thing.



what could it be?

Check all of your ground & power wires and all of the contacts. Make sure they are bare metal/clean and tight.