Well, going to see how this setup turns out. This is what I will be running with:

B20Z2 Block
Balanced Crank
Eagle H Beam Rods
Wiseco 12ish CR Pistons
Ported & Polished LS Head
Three Angle Valve Job
Crower Valve Springs & Retaners
Crower 404 Cams
Skunk2 Manifold
65mm Throttlebody
Greddy 1 Piece 4-2-1 Header
Test Pipe With Tusudo Catback
Hondata S200

Everything is still in the building stage however that block is almost done. After the block then it's the Type R tranny cause I need to have the cases swapped. Then have the head checked to make sure it's all a go. After I get everything done and put together it will be going into a 93 Honda Civic DX Hatch. My plan is to have a nice streetable Civic that runs 13s

pretty close to my setup, with some killer headwork you can get some pretty good numbers out of a setup like that.

Hope I do with this however, I will be happy if it runs 13s

With a ITR trans you shouldn't a problem hitting 13's.Is the car going to be full interior? Do you plan on using slicks?

The only thing that will be missing will be the back seats. Hell, I still have working ac in this car and I plan on keeping that too. I will be running 14 inch slicks at the track.

yeah you should be in the 13's np then....

heres my dyno to give you an idea
84.5mm type R pistons
b20z block
P8R head with performance valvejob and type R style port
2.5" exhaust good header skunk2 IM
65mm TB 3" SRI with BPI v-stack hondata style IM gasket
stock injectors running uberdata cam gears at +4I,-4E

green line is stock engine just cams and IHE
red is built motor, half tuned, stock TB
blue is retuned with all mods that are listed.

UPDATE: I have everything back from the shop so now all I need to get is a gasket kit and all the bearings to start putting it together. Also found out that they not only balanced then crank but they also did the rods and pistons too. Guess that's a plus also!

I had close to the same.

B20B
12.5:1 JE pistons
Eagle rods
ARP headstuds
404's
full KMS valvetrain
Type R header
2.5" GReddy SP2 exhaust w/ no cat
Custom GSXR1300 ITB's
CROME tuned
Cable B16 w/spoon FD and Phantom "slip" LSD
Gutted 92 CX Hatch (1 seat, no interior panels from dash back)

197hp 184 Lbs/ft

12.92 on 22.5 MT slicks (traction finally at the top of Third/ It was funny because I was running a built GSR 4dr and he ran a 13.2)

Before you ask Idle was an issue and I went through Axle's like a like a hooker goes through Valtrex

Ya I know idle is going to be a problem but i have AutoZone axles so they will be free when they brake. LoL

Jeez i just can't understand how everyone breaks axles so often . . . i'm on my same 'reman.' axles that i've had since i bought the car . . . broke two diffs but axles are still kicking, lol. the sig. has the details . . . stock axles.

Now sorry to get off topic . . . one day i'd like to have a nice built all motor LS. It's so hard trying to sleep on people when you're turboed . . . everyone gets so scared, haha . . . good luck with the build

I know what my problem was... AutoZone Axles. I switched out to OEM and didn't have another problem with them. The Phantom Slip on the other hand had to be replaced three times within a four month period.

I have had good luck with my Auto Zone axles but then again I do take the old was back and get new ones every time i do a motor swap too. I even have count less passes at the track with slicks to and i never have broke a axle yet. However, things might change with this new setup.

bump

LOL @ people thinking that they are snapping axles b/c of AZ. Matt Stover makes 825whp and goes through 2 sets of axles a season --- always run AZ. If you are snapping axles w/ the HP/TQ mentioned here it has more to do w/ 1) the angle of the axles (shitty mounts?) or you need to driver mod. I know this is 2 year old thread.. I'm just adding this since the poster above me bumped it.