I've been building up my car (for what seems like for-f'n-ever) and it seems like what's left is it really just needs to be tuned. I was looking at getting the Neptune RTP combo (ECU with RTP installed + wideband kit) and The 310 injector + Fuel pump kit. I have a 95 integra and my build so far is this:
Ls(non-vtec)B20 Build
Bottom:
B20 block bored 20 over
LS crank
Wiseco 84.5mm 11:1 pistons
Crower Rods
Type R oil pump
Stock Oil pan

Top:
P&P LS Head
Crower dual valve springs/Titanium Retainers
Currently running stock LS cams, but have Crower 62403 Camshafts (wasn't sure about using them until I got tuned)
Cometic B20 head gasket
ARP head studs

Other:
Mildly P&P Stock LS intake manifold
Stock LS injectors
Stock (currently using) or Gsport(Mr.Gasket high flow fuel rail - have, not sure if I should use)
Stock Fuel pump
Stock cam gears
Stock starter
DC 4-2-1 headers
AEM lightened pulleys
Generic ram intake with knock-off K&N Filter
Oil Catch can (not currently using)
a boat load of money into machine work

OK so now for my 7+ questions to happiness:
1> I've changed my head gasket a few times now, (with a new one each time) and it'll run for a while just fine and then start burning oil. Can this be attributed to it not being tuned?
2> Compression seems pretty steady at 150 across all four but doesn't that seem low? (maybe not since I've still got the stock cams in?)
3> It gets pretty freaking cold here in Utah, and my car just does not want to turn over (I just bought a new battery, it will sometimes turn over if I crank it, and crank it) Is this a weak starter or No-tune issue, (one buddy told me that because my bottom end was built, but I was still using the stock cams, I wasn't allowing enough air into the cylinders)?
4> When (and if) I ever get it started it idles really high (about 2000 rpm) for a while then eventually works itself down to about 900 rpm. Again, tune issue (stock ECU trying to figure out what the F I've done to the engine) or possibly bad IACV?
5> Are the 310 injectors the right size? (what's the difference between lo & hi impedence?)
6> Why do I need a wideband O2 sensor kit?
7> (should I be kicked in the satchel for not knowing any of this?)

My timing light seems to have everything right on. I love my car and really just want it to run well and not give me any problems. I don't need it for racing (not into that). I just don't want to drop another $1000+ not knowing for sure what, if anything, it's going to fix. I've put a ton of time, love, sweat, and money into this Frankenstein of a Honda and I'm about to be a headline if I can't show my wife that this project can be finalized.

Anyway again, thanks!
I welcome any and all comments/kicks to the satch

if you have 11:1 comp, your compression test should be around 250 with a fully built motor

250 psi? Really? I was just happy to get an even 150 across, my starter was kinda weak when I was doing my test, and I'm still running my stock cams instead of my crowers, (I did make sure to adjust the valve lash properly), do you think that could have been it?

i mean it could be...how long has the motor been running?

1> you should not have to change the head gasket that much...you must not be tightening down the head enough or something is messed up
2> my b20b stock puts down 220-230psi
3> If it is really cold and not tuned your a/f is prolly all kinds of messed up...thats prolly the reason...are you going to get it tuned? chipped ecu?
4> that is typical...one the motor gets a little warm the idle will come down
5> if you are running the stock ecu right now then using 310cc injectors is prolly causing it to be really rich...and for an integra 94-01 you need saturated injectors
6> if you wanna tune it yourself then yes...my advice get it tuned by a professional...worst thing that you can do is try to tune it, lean it out and mess up your brand new motor
7> I think that you shouldnt of done a build like this w/out knowing that if you dont have a tune on it run the stock injectors with the stock LS ecu and it will run a lot better...constructive criticism...read, read, read before you tackle a project like this

I'd be really concerned about the compression #'s being so low. Explain how you're doing the compression test. Have you tried a "wet" compression test? If you have, did your readings change at all? Also, have you tried a leak down test? Results?

Fuel rails, stick to stock. There's no need for aftermarkets ones unless you're boosting. IMO.

Sorry I guess i wasn't clear on the injectors. I'm running stock injectors, and I was wondering what ones to get (if I should get any at all) when i get it tuned. I'm thinking of getting the Neptune RTP., but there's no way I'm going to try and tune it myself. (hopefully, I'll be able to get a hold of Cortney Green here in Utah. Neptune told me to use him.) I can turn a wrench but technology and I don't get along.

As far as the compression test goes, I recently changed the head gasket (again) and when I got everything back together I did a quick test just to make sure compression was the same across all four. I just screwed the hose down each spark plug hole and I didn't add any oil. I also had the fuse for the fuel taken out so the only "wet" around the rings would have been what was already there. (right?) I just checked it while a friend cranked the engine and it held at the highest point at 150 psi on each.

I haven't done a leak down since putting it back together. (using an air compessor to pump air into each cylinder and measure psi, right?) Anyway I'll probably be messing around with it again soon. (maybe not this weekend, my wife would kill)

Injectors... well you should get some sort of tuning software that will tell you what duty cycle the injectors are at. I believe optimal is somewhere in the 70-80% duty cycle, if you're higher than that you could go a little larger to drop duty cycle and extend the life of the injector. 310's, 390's are about the best thing for an all motor build, so you're on the right path. Some will argue and say it's better to have too big of an injector cuz then you can kinda scale it down and have some room to work with, however if you're injector is too small... you're screwed.

A wet compression test is something you do after you perform a regular test. In doing so you drop a couple drops of oil (half a cap full) into the cylinder, screw the tester in and crank the motor over until the needle stops moving. It's also recommended to hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. Adding the oil will tell you if the rings are bad or didnt seat right during break in.

Also, when I do a compression test I unplug the distributor and sometimes I completely unplug the ECU as well as pull the fuse for it.

But yes, I suggest doing a leak down after redoing your compression test. If everything checks out, then you just have a weak engine.

Check to see if the head has not warped. You can run Crower 403's untuned for a little while. I ran mine untuned for a 200 some miles before I got it tuned because I had to drive a good distance to get it tuned. But I also didn't have new pistons with that kind of compression.