Great idea!
Engine bay (very dirty, sorry):
The intake manifold is the original B20Z and features the silver resonance chamber which increases mid-range torque. Downstream are Crower 402 cams with stock valvetrain intalled in a P8R head (33mm intake valves, 84mm combustion chamber). The block is a stock B20Z, and static compression with the P8R head is 9.3:1. Exhaust is a stainless 4-2-1 ebay header with a 2.25" collector into a 2.25"x2.5" test pipe. This goes into a 2.5" galvanized pipe and exits through a MagnaFlow 2.5 inch "13216 XL Turbo Muffler," which uses a chambered design. There's also a 2.5" resonator mid-way through. Sounds nice and deep until 4500 RPM, then it sounds like a GSR 'til 7000 RPM redline.
Cold air intake:
I cut out the fake louvre on the passenger side and cut a 3" hole in the fender to route the intake down here. The plumbing is aluminum (some scrap pieces I got for free) and a 3" rubber elbow cut to match the needed angle. Filter is generic Advance Auto parts $20 cotton thing.
I ordered an LS transmission from the local shop that swapped the motor, but accidentally ended up with a GSR trans for the same price (whoops)!
Engine management is a Hondata S300 street-tuned by John Vega of phearable.net. Target AFR was 13-13.5:1 full load, 15-16:1 light load (for highway fuel economy). I usually use mid-grade fuel. The car has the stock fuel and ignition systems, with the exception of the Bosch Platinum +4 plugs.
The motor has lots of torque (I would guess 170-180lb*ft) starting at 1500RPM, peaks at about 2200 and 4500, and falls off sharply above 6000. I could get a little more power with longer-duration cams and a short ram intake, but I don't want to sacrifice the torque (this is a daily driver and kicks ass around town).
My best quarter mile is 15.0 sec on 17" wheels and General Exclaim UHPs. From this, I think the motor develops around 170-180 BHP. Also, I don't have much practice launching.
