ok i know this is a board for nonvtec, but i figure its best place for this thread,
what i want is to beat gsrs and b16s with not much sweat,
what i have is, a 92 4dr dx with a rebuilt ls with less than 200 miles on it, like ive seriously driven the car 10 times with the swap, all work done by me, except valve job, and hone,
it has gsr trans stage 3 (cheap ass xtd) clutch lightwieght flywheel
blox intake manifold password jdm whalepenis sri greddy tri y open header, (sreet racing is bad but so is porn) lol anyway on the street i beat a freinds b16, he spun like a mofo tho, on the track i ran slo as tits, 10.5 1/8th mile, with horrible sixty foots 2.5s
in guess the horsepower rang im lookin for is about 170 to the wheels,
with all this said what would be the next step for the most bang or my buck hp?
ive had a nitrous setup i didnt like it, it was scary, its actually still on the car from the single cam but im trying to sell it,
i have some turbo parts but i dont really want this to be my turbo build either,
so i guess its all motor, should i go lsv? or just build the ls for now?
now 170 is a high goal for me if i only got 150 id prolly be happy
so plz any comments are welcome

If you only want 150whp just stick with the Ls motor. Get a Hondata S100, some stage 1 or stage 2 cams. Stage 2 cams requires a valve train upgrade. Get a tune and you will be around your hp goal. I have a 98 Civic coupe with a 99 Ls motor. I have a CAI, 4-2-1 header and 2.5" cat back. I am making 134whp and 127lbs torque. I beat B16 swapped Hondas all day. B16's have no torque and Ls motors make good torque.

to get 170whp from an ls you are going to have a fully built motor...my buddy that had a stock ls bottom end, and stock gsr head made 171whp

how much do you think im puttin to the wheels now?
would i need a tune with what i have above?
would it really be feasable to say i could get 150-160
with the addition of cams, and mods listed?
lol also how horible of a driver do i sound like with mentioned times, first time to a track in a long long time btw

when you say rebuilt..is it all stock? if the internals are completely stock with the bolt ons you prolly picked up 10whp so maybe like 125-130whp (approx 150-160 bhp)...honestly really see a motor shine regardless of power when you have a professional tune ur car just so they can optimize timing and air/fuel mix

ok well thats about what i ws expecting,
and yes all stock rebuild,
when you say tune, now would you mean an actual dyno tune or maybe a street tune?
would there be a ton of difference in the two?
what tuning components would be neccesary for what im trying to do?
should i wait for cams or such?
also im thinking crower 402s or 403s, would my setup be more benificial with something else?
are these to big or to small?
also would you suggest to raise redline and get rod bolts headbolts and valvetrain?
sorry for all the questions, but i really want some power outta this ls,
and im also thinking of picking up another ls head for relativly cheap and building the crap outta it, good or bad idea?

402's would be a good cam on a stock rebuild...you could heavily build another head, but you are not going to get the full power outta it unless u build the bottom end

A bone stock Ls motor with no bolt ons at all in good shape makes 109whp and 100lbs. I am making 134whp and 127lbs with IHE and tune. To get 170whp from a Ls motor you will need to upgrage to higher compression pistons (P30 or TypeR), have some head work done, upgrade your cams. Stage 2 Crower cams will be the best for all motor but need a good tune to idle like stock. As far as tuning get a real tune on a dyno from a real tuner. Street tuning only gets you so much and can be unrelieable. My tuner raised my redline to 7000, going any higher is pointless unless you have cams and head work. ARP rod bolts are a good idea if you plan on reving over 7500.

how much were you making untuned?
and what did you use to tune your ecu?
also how much was your dyno tune?
should i wait till i get the 402s?
also i MIGHT be getting my hands on a b20, any real disadvantages of this over the b18?
is it really true they have weaker cylinder walls?
i like the idea of nonvtec power, and i love the idea of allmotor power but is it just me or do these statements just not go together?

ok so i also just checked prices on the differnt cams, well at least from crowers line up,
the 402s is what ill be choosing,
will it be neccasary to get arp bolts for anything? how about springs/retainers?
also what shoul i tune with? can you dyno tune on crome? or something very inexspensive?
also i assume these will fit b20 if i go that route, is this correct?
and last but equally important what gains should i expect with previous stated mods plus these cams? ill give another run down of the list

password jdm powerchamber
blox intake mani
greddy tri y open header
idk if it matters but i also have an underdrive pulley
also just to make me feel better about my short list gsr trans
stage 3 clutch

and in about a month crower 402s

thanks for all the help so far

I would use some ARP rod bolts if you plan to rev past 7500rpms. With the 402 cams no need to springs and retainers. Wait until you get your cams in to get a tune. You can do IHE before tuning. Hondata S100 is the best way to go for Honda tuning. The B20 motor is a great motor makes lots of torque. I would go with a B20z, it has a higher compression so it makes more power and torque. All B18a and B18b parts will change over to a B20, so you can swap over all you bolt on goodies and cams.

^ although aftermarket springs/retainers are not required...they are recommended...i would strongly recommend it

i had hondata s200 but the guy i took it to said he wil only use 300 so i sold it..

You do not need to upgrade the valve train for 402s. Even says so on the Crower wed site. It would be a good thing to do if you have the money to upgrade. The S200 is long discontinued by Hondata. For a street car that is NA stick with the S100. The S300 has lot of stuff you will not need, boost conrtrol, No3 control, launch control ect. Oh and I was making 117whp and 109lbs before tuning.

so s100 is still easily available?
wow so you gained more than 15 whp just by a tune? thats crazy, im getting more excited everymin lol,
so maybe i might hit like 145 with cams and tune?
i wanna get a tune just so i have the full potential of my current setup..grrr
i have to save up for these cams and will prob take about a monthand a half, what are some things i need to do or grab so im ready to slap them in when i get them? would it be a bad idea to roll around untuned till i find a tuner i want and should i buy the s100 from hondata or just get it off like craigslist? im asking cause i think its older than s200 and you said its way outdated, so wouldnt it be the same for the s100?
also will i need cam gears? or bigger fuel pump or regulater or anything?
and whats a decent price on the s100?

so it looks as tho plans have changed i found a really good deal on a gsr head, just tradin some parts for it, its a few hours away so it will prob be a week or two before i get my hands on it, but ill prolly get a few extra ponies for few less coin,
ill be back when i get the head for some updates! thanks again guys

The S100 is Hondata's first tuning setup. The S200 is discontinued because of the S300. The S200 and S300 are very similar but the S300 has more extas. Hondata basically upgraded the S200 and called it the S300. The S100 is still widely used. IMO the S300 is overkill for a NA street car, the S100 can tune for anything. A GSR head is agreat way to go. 170whp with a GSR head.

cool thats what im hopin for
im also hopin to get the head next sunday
and appearntly theres a basemap that skunk2 put out for a single cam vtec, and its supposed to be great for the ls vtec, ill letcha know when i find out more,

Skunk2 is good but every motor and set up is different. That said every motor must be tune a little different. There is no one tune fits all. Trust me on the Hondata.

no i agree 100%
but what i was told is a buddy of mine has just a basemap from them to get started in the right direction, it will definetly get cam gears and a good tune, no doubt, besides i wanna know actual numbers when im done