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 Post subject: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 11:30 pm 
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hi guys my DB1 is croaking and i am in need of a rebuild. before you guys tell me to swap it for a b20 or swap it for something else, let me tell you i dont want the reff up my butt ( i live in california) . i want to keep it mildly built for reliabilty. so guys heres my budget. 5 to 1.5k and horse power atleast 150 ish. can you tell me is that doable? let me know what you think.


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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:57 am 
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well a longblock b20 will be like 600 or so with shipping... you could do a couple bolt on parts after that

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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 4:19 pm 
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stanky finger wrote:
before you guys tell me to swap it for a b20 or swap it for something else, let me tell you i dont want the reff up my butt ( i live in california) .



Integraguy04 wrote:
well a longblock b20 will be like 600 or so with shipping... you could do a couple bolt on parts after that


Im guessing you didnt read his post then.

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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:08 pm 
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you should still be able to pass smog with a b20

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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 10:50 pm 
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Dont go with the b20 long block it sounds good at the begining but in the long run it is harder to work with. If i were you i would go with the ls block and build the internals, that way you have natural power that is really responsive and quick off the line that will cost you around 1000 if yo can do some of the work on your own.


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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:08 pm 
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Technically the B20 is a "Truck Motor" and you cannot swap the motor in a car in California legally. DAMN California SMOG Laws :banghead


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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:13 pm 
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As far as a Mild build goes P30's with ARP rod bolts on stock rods have it All balanced-N-Blueprinted all well within your budget. I'm goin this route but the motor is goin in my 98 civic but with a fully built LS head with full crower valvetrain unsure about Cams tho


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 Post subject: Re: need a rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:01 am 
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stanky finger wrote:
hi guys my DB1 is croaking and i am in need of a rebuild. before you guys tell me to swap it for a b20 or swap it for something else, let me tell you i dont want the reff up my butt ( i live in california) . i want to keep it mildly built for reliabilty. so guys heres my budget. 5 to 1.5k and horse power atleast 150 ish. can you tell me is that doable? let me know what you think.


The crower 402's are a mild cam,you can run these cam on the stock ecu. Also mill the head or modify the oem headgasket(remove the center layer to make it a 2 layer head gasket) to make up for lost cylinder presure. While the head is off you can do a 3 angle valve job & p&p if you'll like. This cams aren't carb legal but you should still be able to pass smog with them. Now if you get sent to the ref just switch them with the oem ones.

six7one wrote:
As far as a Mild build goes P30's with ARP rod bolts on stock rods have it All balanced-N-Blueprinted all well within your budget. I'm goin this route but the motor is goin in my 98 civic but with a fully built LS head with full crower valvetrain unsure about Cams tho


I would use the 403's with the P30 or PR3 pistons and you also have to cough up the money for the valvetrain. But since you said you wanted reliability & if this is your dd I would go with the 402's since titanium retainer warp over time.

So if you decide to go with the 402's & want to bump up your CR you can get some P61's. They'll give you a 10.1:1 CR & fit onto the ls rod without any modification.


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