I have a B18a1 out of a 92 integra that i put in my 94 civic 4dr. i put a to4e turbo on it and it didnt feel like it was gonna hold together. So now the motor is stripped down in my garage and i am wondering what all i should put in it for internals. if anyone has answers for my delema let me know thx Shawn.

Now when you say it didn't feel like it wasn't gonna hold, did the motor start to knock?

also, and for that part: did you tuned it properly?

also ask these questions:

psi you were running when it started to give you problems.


gasoline octane you were using. related to that, ignition timing.

which tune you had?

did you used crome? any other?

if you want help you need to shell out info. otherwise this fine board canmt do much.

it has the stock ecu out of the integra. i was running about 7-8 lbs of boost. i had supreme in it. and no the motor didnt start knocking.

how does the spark plugs look?

they look good, do i need to change out the ecu now that i have boosted it?

well, you need to tune. yes, 7-8psi aren't 10 or 15 or 20 or whatever psi, but of course it's a new relation of fuel and timing to your ecu... you need to chip your ecu with any program ranging from crome to hondata to ectune... or send it to someone to chip it... what timing do you have set your dizzy? when you say spark plugs look good, describe how they look. do you have an adjustable fpr? at which psi is it set?

spark plugs: do they look brown, black, white at the tip?

the spark plugs are whitish, i dont have a fpr, but am getting one. when i do get it what psi should i have it set to? and suggestiong on what cams i should use, Stock? piston size? Pistons? im kinda new to this i have been a muscle car man all my life...

if spark plugs are white, you're running lean. your engine is surely knocking even when you don't listen to it. if you don't tune your afr you're gonna grenade the engine. before thinking on cams, you should get a tune. i was going to suggest a street tune, but you said that you're new to turbos, so it's better if you take it to a reputable dyno shop.

the closest dyno shop is three hundred miles from me and they dont have a very good reputation. any other suggestions maybe i could do it myself. o and i already have the motor torn apart.

im thinking of going with hondata s300, is that a good one? i was reading in there and it said it could handle up to 5 bar map sensor, thats one thing i had a problem with when it would really start to spool up the check engine light would come on i think its the map sensor but wasnt sure, IS IT?

do u think i should use the stock ecu or a different one?

What do you mean stock ECU? Hondata S300 goes inside the ECU. so, you're going to be using a honda ECU if you use anything from Hondata.

My friends argue back and forth about which is better... Neptune RTP and Hondata S300... I'm going with S300 as most of my friends are, but another of my friends ran RTP and had zero issues with it.

ok i think i got the ecu figured one now i just need tips on that to do to the motor should i put a girdle and block guard in it? should i leave it the stock 81 mm bore. will i have to do any modifying if i get hbeam rods or do i even need them? if u have any answers for me they will be greatly appreciated...

I would advise against a block guard.

What are your power goals? I say anything north of 300 you should look into having it sleeved by Darton, Benson or Golden Eagle.

I know of a boosted b16 that makes 550 and doesn't use a girdle, so I think you'll be safe without it.

Other than just ARP headstuds I cant think of much else you're going to need...

i would like around 275 whp, so if i just stay with stock piston sizes i should be ok? any advise on valvetrain??? the motor has about 160k on it, think i should change the valve guides? thanks again u have been a very big help!!!!!!!!!!!!!! o and i was looking at cams today would crower 404's be worth it??? thanks again

275 you'll be fine on stock sleeves as well as stock bore.

I would say upgrade since it'll all be apart, not sure who makes springs/retainers for the LS head. I would get a valve job and get the valve guides checked out to see if they need replaced or not.

404's are an all motor cam, so no.

i upgraded the valve springs and retainers on my ls... i advise you do the same. the ls valve springs is known for failing at 7,000 + rpms. kms sells a awesome set of springs and retainers that can withstand up to 11,000 rpms.

also i advise you to upgrade the oem rod bolts to arp's. oem rod bolts are also known to fail at 7,000 + rpms.