but i know its getting power because i removed the cap and the rotor spins

First off, +12v needs to reach the coil. The igniter also shares this +12v inside of the distributor. This +12v is only present when the key is in "ON" or "START", its also fused through a 15amp fuse in the under dash/relay box.

Then you have the Ignition Output Signal which is sent from the ECU to trigger the igniter. You can use a test light to see that this signal is being pulled to ground. If you got no pulse, you got no spark.

Then you have the three sensors: TDC (top dead center), CKP (crank position) & CYP (cylinder position). You can measure their coil resistance, which I believe is about 300 - 700 ohms, however, this alone does not verify their operation. While your measuring their resistance, you can also check the ignition coils primary and secondary resistance.

You should also check wiring integrity of all wires to/from the distributor to the ECU for opens, shorts & continuity.

Of course, the condition of your spark plugs, wires, rotor & cap should be in good condition as well.....when was the last time these were replaced?

A Helms manual would also help out as well, as the information above is given in it.