So I swapped a b18b into my car about a year ago. It has remained pretty much as stock as you can get since....Just an FPR, Intake & 2.25" exhaust. I don't know any little "b18b tricks of the trade"

I've been to the track a bunch lately and run consistent 15.3-15.5 in my 98 Civic coupe w/ no back seat w/ 2.2 60s and 88mph traps.

Two questions....

1. What are some decent cheap power tricks for bettering my times? I know I still have some things to "bolt on"....what's considered good and what's considered a waste as far as you experienced non vtec guys are concerned?
I've heard things like.....
- messing with cam adjustment with gears.
- retarding the dizzy a little to help w/ the top end.
- adding a header. LoL
- upping to a 2.5" exhaust.
- blocking/rerouting coolant to the FITV and/or the IACV.
- running a chipped p28 with a program.
- 2 step

2. I have a CEL # 6 & 7......TPS and coolant sensor. This will unfortunately affect performance at the track right? By how much would you think it's hurting me? I need to get these fixed soon.

I guess any little advice would be great. Thanks in advance guys.

I don't understand why people want to race their cars when it has obvious problems.

Fix the CEL's then go race.

Cheap chicks? It's a Honda, there aren't many.

Have you gutted the car? Show up to the track with only the driver seat and dash? That's something to try.

Have you tried some sort of drag radial or slicks possibly? That might help reduce your 60's.

If your throwing a TPS code, your idle should be messed up , too. I just had to change my TPS sensor, but it was 12$ for a blox oem replacement one off of eBay. Remeber, you have to calibrate it once its installed on the TB. I just took my TB off for easy access,and removed the sensors, scrubbed my TB clean, took out the sensors on my IM, scrubbed as much of that clean as I could.

Wow. It ran SO much better, I got rid of a ridiculous amount of carbon, so .

How many miles does your car/motor have? How recent was the TBELT/WP job done? How old are you plug wires/diz cap/rotor button/spark plugs? Fuel filter? Maintenence is key.

You should always treat a modified car with the following financial proirities:

1. Broken/damaged Stuff. (I mean a something minor like a seat rip won't hurt your engine, but you already stated you knew you were throwing CEL codes.)
2. Maintenence (Helps keep stuff from being/getting broken.)
3. Modification/Upgrades.

Sorry guys. I know what you mean about being dumb and racing. Please keep in mind that I have been working w/ Hondas for about the last 15 years in both the show and race scene....so I'm not really that fresh or dumb.....just new to the LS.

I know I shouldn't race w/ a CEL simply because it affects performance in my situation running in open loop. However, I'm not that concerned that they're on. I know my motor won't blow up due to a bad tps or coolant sensor so whatever for now.....I've been trying to fix the issues. I'll run bad times for now. I guess it's just the addict in me. LoL Call me dumb. It's ok.

My idle is messed up. I really want to check my base idle, timing and all that after all CEL issue is fixed.

I replaced the coolant sensor (right below the dizzy) w/ a brand new OEM one recently. Coolant code still there. (even after reseting and/or unplugging the ecu) Checked the resistance from the sensor and it's raising and lowering accordingly. The sensor is receiving 4.9ish volts from the ecu. So in my mind, everything is fine.

I have also replaced the tps w/ an Omni Power one. It came w/ the new gasket and bolts and everything. I did calibrate to absolutely as close as I could get it at closed and wot. The tps also sees about 5 volts from the ecu. It still throws the tps code.....when plugged in, I can feel the power kinda roaming and surging even at still cruising speed. At very low throttle the car even suddenly looses all power (in the engine) for a sec until I do something else w/ the throttle. Every so often, at low rpm steady cruising throttle, it even bucks like a damn bull every now and then.

I've discovered that due to the problem, my car actually runs better if I simply unplug the tps and live w/ the check engine light for now.

Any advice people.
ECU
Wiring
TPS
Ignition

All this stuff was done and more before the swap went in a year ago.
I got the 00 JDM b18b from Steve @ hmotors last year. mileage unknown "averaged 40-50k" or whatever they always put on the websites.
The oil pump is 10k old.
The TB/WP & tensioner are 10k old.
The plugs are brand new NGKs
The wires are perfectly good 10k old NGKs
The cap & rotor is 10k old OEM

I had a b18b with CTR pistons...
exedy stage 3 clutch..
light flywheel
Gsr tranny...
o yea a little bit of lauging gas
an it ran stupid hard...