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 Post subject: Plans/Prices For the B18b1
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 12:19 pm 
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peon
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If you would change anything let me know

Crower 404 Camshafts- $305
Crower Retainers and Springs - $335
PR3 pistons - $150
ACL Bearing kit - $75
Blox IM - $150
Port & Polish Stg 1 by YVERSION on HT - $550
Ferrea S.S Valves - $180
S.S clutch & brake lines - $100
Action 2ms Clutch- $405
Fidanza Flywheel- $180
CTR N1 Pulley-$75
Mfactory cam gears- $150
ARP Rod bolts- $33
Fuel Press Reg.- $80
Hasport Mounts- $200(Coming on Friday)
Hondata S200- $300(Not Sure if I should just go with crome or Neptune...any thoughts?)
Tuning by Churchs - $400>
TOTAL W/O Machine Work or a Gasket set - $3,700

I have no Idea what machine costs for a re-hone and possible align hone.Depending on my engines needs.

All of these prices were four new parts found on HT if you guys know of any cheaper places let me know please....Im hoping to find some parts used along the way.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 3:58 pm 
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id look at jdm type R pistons, they are similar ocmpression but have the antifriction coating on the skirts

you could save money and get a b&m FPR

theres some cheaper clutches out there than the action, you dont need to go silly on a mild NA build

hopefully that portwork will include a valvejob for the new valves? and are you getting oversized? id go .5mm over. to just get stock sezed SS valves to me seems to be a waste.

you can save money running a single spring and stock retainers, personally i use rocket springs and have now for a couple years, no issues and i rev to 8500.

as far as tuning go with whatever your tuner likes.

AND GET A GOOD MACHINE SHOP


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 6:28 pm 
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I know I don't need to go big on the clutch,but I've heard nothing but good reviews on them.Every othere clutch seems to be mixed.I'll look in to the B&M FPR.Port Job does include a valve job so thats covered.And Churchs tunes anything,thy're an authorized dealer for Hondata and Crome


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 11:28 pm 
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How much extra power would I gain by going oversized on the valves?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 3:17 am 
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depends on how much air your ports can flow. its worth it though with the 404's the stock head starts to become a choking point at around 6000rpm and the 404's will make peak power at around 7500rpm with a good head.

the main thing though is cost. its 180 bux usually it doesnt matter price wise if you go OS or not, i just dont see a point in a NA application of using aftermarket valves unless you go OS or are revving real high. granted they probably have a tapered stem and the LS valves have a rather thick stem compared to vtec valves.

the main purpose of aftermarket valves is lighter, tapered stem, SS option if you use nitrous/FI, and ability to OS.

weight isnt a huge factor cause i doubt your goin over 8k, are you running nitrous? SS is better for high EGT's, and IMHO the flow advantage of a tapered stem (if there even is one) is minimal untill you talk about much higher lift/ higher CFM.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 7:53 am 
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Sounds good, like my set up except I'm running B18C1 pistons and 403's. NepTune rocks...especially NepTune RTP (Real Time Programming). :idea:

http://www.hrtuning.com/

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Into CR-X's and other ED's? Check us out..Stock, Hybrid, or Just a fan...
http://www.cr-xcentral.com
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http://www.rywire.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 8:44 am 
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No nitrous...This is going to be an all motor set-up.I already have a lot of dis believers lol.I've got a friend with a 999 Si that still thinks he'll be able to take me with an intake and ITR header and type r cams un tuned


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 10:09 am 
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you didnt know that a b16 is like the fastest most powerfull motor out there... it will own you with its superior r/s ratio. they make like 150hp with ITR cams and just being in a EM1 is good for like 2 seconds off their 1/4 time compared to any other chassis. :roll:

oh ya and a b16 in a EM1 = teh gAY!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 10:13 am 
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Well yea he thinks he can beat a built LS because he can beat me with my 126hp oil burning b20 lol.He thinks that just because it's a b20 that its like h22 fast lol.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 8:42 am 
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So I picked up a GSR clutch/PP and flywheel for $50 off of a friend that just bought a type r tranny,lightened flywheel and exedy clutch.The clutch has maybe 5,000mi on it so it should be good enough to hold me over for awhile


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 6:10 pm 
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dont expect the world from an organic disc like in a exedy or stock but it should be fine. i had a ACT street disc and it lasted me a few years even though i got it used as well (although i was kinda nursing it for the last year or so)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 9:58 pm 
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I'm not expecting much...just to hold me over long enough to get it BAR'd and long enough to gather my parts for the build


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 10:45 pm 
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So I have a guy that may trade me a ported polished ls head with a full crower valvetrain and 403 cams for my b20.I'm wondering how these would be with the above listed combo...Any input would be great because he's waiting on my decision


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:59 pm 
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So Im guessing I'd be putting out about 160whp to the ground with that head set-up...Is that about right?I was hoping to go with the 404's but this may just be too good a deal to pass up.I'm guessing Im putting down maybe 115whp with my stock 130,000mi ls right now,It should still show quite a difference over stock.

Do the 403's like higher compression like the 404's?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:20 am 
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160 is doable if you have higher compression and supporting exhaust mods.

typically 404's will make about 10 hp more on an identical setup


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:49 am 
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I do like the all-motor LS concept, really anything Honda and/or anything n/a is cool in my book but man I just can't see spending $3700-ish for n/a LS. I spent that on a well-equipped B20/VTEC which had I finished it instead of parted out would have laid down at least 210whp.

I'm not saying "get VTEC" as that's not what this forum is all about, although the sister site is all about H22 which bone stock and nearly half the price will produce almost as much power as you'll get with your intended setup.

That's me though, if you're stuck on the n/a B18B challenge it's all good, I guess as long as your happy with the results and are having fun with it you will feel it's money well spent.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:09 pm 
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really the major reason Im keeping a b18 in my car is because it will be BAR'd aka legal and Im running a/c.Ive heard,and may be completely wrong, but Ive heard you can't run a/c with an h22 swap and that its alot harder to get it legalized in CA.I've been thinking about it and it is alot of money to spend on a little power and I've now started looking into a JRSC which will put out the same amount of power for half the money if I decide not to rebuild.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:34 pm 
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If you're into the JRSC thing talk to PickleTeg he's really gigged out with all teh options. Spent what you have budgeted but is putting down the power. I sold a JRSC kit to Ghettokracker, he still ain't using it you could always try to snatch it off him! :P

The big thing I think with the H22 (as with other swaps also) getting bar'd is make sure the engine is at least the year of your car, or newer, and probably no JDM swaps just to be safe. But yes you can keep a/c with the proper mounting kit. HCP makes kits with optional a/c bracket, you just can't use the H-series compressor I don't think. You acn even get an HCP knock-off brand for half price then just get teh a/c mount from HCP. They've come a long ways since the experimental swaps from years ago.
I'd suggest a 97-01 USDM H22A (non-SH model) swap. The SH block is meant for use only with the ATTS trans.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 4:23 pm 
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to just up and build a all motor build is quite expensive. id say i spent maybe 3g's including machine work assembly for my setup not including I/H/E etc... i was origionally going to turbo my b18b but i didnt want to save sae save then slap this turbo setup on, i wanted to constantly be upgrading this, workin on that and seeing small incremental gains as i go. i pulled my b18b out and swapped in a b20 that laid down a tire shredding 112hp and 110 tq. now im making 180hp/150tq. cost about the same as a turbo setup but i was able to do it a bit at a time over the course of say 3 years... sure im not making as much as i would with a turbo but the cars still fast as hell and i get to keep wrenching all the time and for me thats the main reason to stick with NA.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:08 pm 
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Going H2B has always been in the back of my mind and if I were to go that route I'd be putting in the same amount of cash and probably put the same power down with a stock engine with I/H/E and it would keep stock reliability.I have a b16 tranny and axles obviously so if I went h2b I'd need a harness,engine, and the kit.IDK less work,less time,same amount of power, makes sense to me and nobody in my area has done this yet surprisingly.Only one EG with a complete h22 drivetrain swap.


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