for about 6-8 months i've been running these i also have tokico illuminas so i sit considerably lower. well what i've been noticing is when i hit a bump or dip in the road(passenger side) the upper arm smashes into either the shock tower or the inner fender. so hard actually it has put two dimples in the outer sheet metal of the fender. on both sides(driver and passenger). anyone know a solution. other than switching setups. ..side note: the dimples could have been due to body flex while the front uf the car was on stands working on it.? maybe i'll post a pic. would that be helpful?

my ingals kit had directions that said to pound in the inner fender, cause they would bottom out if not.
how much drop do you have?

a pic of the dumples would help...also try to get a pic of the suspension around where the camber arm is. you're going to want to inspect the shock towers for any damage there, and if it's hitting them, take those camber arms off immediately. the last thing you would want is the camber arms denting the shock towers, as this could weaken them, messing with what's holding your car up (not good)

still havent got a pic( coming soon) but they are definately smacking my shock tower. i noticed a small dent there. i'm lowered about 1.5 front and 1.75 rear. i want to get specific spring rates front and rear. so the added spring stiffness might help a little. i was thinking of going to h&r springs for this. or maybe SWIFT springs. but i need to do some homework first. and i'm pretty sure the dimples in my fenders is from chassis flex from hoisting the front end while working on it. but all of this will be addressed as well. i plan to double skin the shock towers(in critical places) as well as stitch weld them. front and rear.

if you're only lowered that much, you really don't need the camber kit. Just make sure your toe is within spec and you're fine. I've been riding on a 2.7" front 2.1" rear drop with no camber kits on my tires for a little under 20k miles and there's almost no camber wear.

Just save yourself the headache of trying to reinforce the shock towers and take your camber kit off. Just make sure there's no rust where it has already dented and if there is, sand it down, weld it if there's a hole, and re-coat it with a protectant.

yea if i take the camber kits off my wheels fold in like crazy. i'm surprised yours dont. i was shredding tires before i put them on, and aligned everything. besides i want everything adjustable. i still need rear toe adjusters though. actually now i think about it i must be lower than i posted before. damn i wish i took measurements before and after. im an idiot.

as far as the dimples in my fenders go i'm not too worried about them, as there is nothing i can do. now i'm positive they are caused by front end sag when on jack stands. sucks but like i said i cant help it. my baby needs a nose job i guess. as far as the bottoming out issue is concerned it only happens when i unexpectantly hit a dip or hole in the road. so my cure for that untill i get stiffer springs or coil-overs is to watch where the hell i'm going and slow down a bit on known rough roads. they barely hit the towers and it sounds a lot worse than it actually is. i know it still is a bad thing but for now i'm stuck. shit happens. thanks

Raise your car up

if i had ride hight adjustablity i would, i checked to see if my front struts were blown and they seem to be ok, or at least theres no fluid leaking. they are used (tociko illuminas) and i have no idea how old they are, i'd like to replace them but my funds as of late are nill. actually now that i finally got tires for my wheels (205-40-16 on cast enkei mesh 16's) i haven't noticed it as much. i don't know.

Late to reply (again), but I'm running skunk2's as well, and I bottom out at times. I've got the damage as well. I'm replacing them with stock a-arms, stat.

I also read that you wanted adjustable rear toe links? Any reason why? You want to run +2 in the rear or something for track? (even that would kind of unnecessary). Honda already provided you the adjustability to get the toes dialed into 0*.

If you look at Skunk2's design, it's destined to use the chassis as a bump stop. I believe their v2 fixed this problem.
I don't recall stock arms having this problem, back 6 years ago in my ricer days, I had my car slammed to the point where it was hard to get out of the car; and they never smacked up like that.

i know the rear toe link is adjustable and i can get more adjustment then i'll ever need from the stock pieces, however if i am beefing everything else up i may as well do that as well. my way of thinking thats all. but as for the UCA i haven't noticed the problem at all lately i think i've just adjusted my driving to suit. besides i am stubborn and refuse to waste money spent. maybe thats not all too smart but hey.

the roads around where i live absolutely suck so i just had to slow down a bit and be more careful, i guess.

I'm definitely going back to stock, and selling the skunk2 kit.

I think I'm hovering <-2* w/o a camber kit, and that works just fine for me. With the kit, I asked for -1.7* anyways lol.

how badly is that tearing up your tires? my car sits pretty low. and i was destroying tires. maybe i'll get rid of mine too, and try something different.

btw i have no problems with a skunk2 kit on my car (98 integra) other than the ball joint boots going bad quick.

Camber kits don't "destroy" tires. Toe settings do. Like I stated before, I use these crappy skunk2 kits, but I still have my camber set to -1.5 to -2.0. My rears are usually around the same. But no tearing up of any tires.

I pretty much set my cars where there is no gap. Not too low, probably about a 2" drop.

Uneven, yes. "Destroying" or "tearing-up" tires, no.