I am stuck on deciding between a b18b or b20b. I know the b18 has the slight horespower advantage over the high comp. b20 but the b20 has the torque. All things equal which would you guys go with/think is faster in a 1/4. Also if i dont up the compression or boost the b20 the whole sleeving thing shouldnt be an issue right. Any help appreciated.

b18b would be my choice. i had b20b(jdm)in my DA. first and second did good. but it was done with after that. i went with a jdm b18b. it was like a whole new car. i guess it depends on what your are putting it in. but i got beat by stock ls's regularly.lol. seriously. with the b20.

thanks for the quick reply. do you think it would be the same scenario in a crx?

Then you must suck at driving then or something. That's all I use are B20s and I bought one B18B and wish I never had. However, I have always had GSR or B16 tranny with my B20. I think the best 1/8 mile time with one in stock form with just bolt ons was a 8.94. So I would say go with a B20 and if you do and get a chance to go look at them then also see if you can find a B20 with a P8R head.

going from a b18b to a b20b isnt going to be anything that impressive. going to a b20z however theres a big difference.

id go with either b20's personally...

There was a post on here about how the B20's were underrated for horsepower from the factory. Honda says they have 126hp and 134Lbs/ft. In the post the guy had put on a DC header, LS intake manifold, CAI, and a full LS exhaust and it made 156hp 162lbs/ft. Keep in mind the numbers from Honda are given with the extremely Restrictive CRV ECU and CRV intake and Exhaust manifold and CRV 1.75" exhaust. They are definately my choice.

thanks guys I think I will just go with a b20... and the sleeve "issue" wont be a problem as long as its stock compression and N/A right

It shouldn't be. I've seen plenty of b20 builds with stock sleeves run just fine. Boosted is another story,lol.

I'll let you know about boosting the B20's. I'm getting ready to boost my B20 on 12 pounds and tune it with an AEM EMS. I had a friend boost one and tune it with CROME. It lasted about 8 months then he spun a rod bearing.

lol non vtec rod bearings arent that great... well i should say they arent tri metal and they have small rod bolts.

If you get a B20 I think you will be happy with it. Also if you get a chance to go look at what the seller has try to find one with a knock sensor also. That one will be the higher compression one like the B20Z2. Because all JDM B20s just have B20B stamped on them no matter what they are.

The B20B with the P8R head is the way to go! VTEC sized
valves. NICE